How to help horses in cold weather
Horses, as outdoor animals, may need additional support to stay safe, warm and well in winter.
On this page, you’ll learn how the cold and dark weather can affect a horse’s health and happiness, and what you can do to keep them comfortable through the winter.
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How cold and dark weather affects horses
Horses can stand cold weather better than we can. They have a natural horse coat that grows thicker for the colder months, which helps them to cope with temperatures as low as 5°C before they start to feel the cold. However, when winter arrives and the weather approaches freezing, horses may get cold.
In winter, you might notice a horse’s activity levels dropping slightly – they may spend more time standing still, as horses generally slow down to conserve energy during the colder months. They stay warm by sheltering using natural shelter such as trees, hedges and landscape features or man-made shelters and, as they’re sociable creatures, by huddling with other horses to share body heat. If it’s windy or wet, horses may shield themselves by lowering or tucking away their heads. They may also turn their rear ends into the rain (or even walk backwards!) to shelter their faces from the downpour.
¹British Equestrian ‘State of the Nation Report 2023’
How to help horses survive in cold weather
Helping a horse stay safe over the winter requires extra care and attention. When planning horse care ahead of the winter, there are some things to keep in mind:
- Does the horse have a safe outdoor space and access to shelter, as well as somewhere dry to stand or lie down?
- Does the horse have good company?
- Have they got an appropriate diet for the winter months?
- Would you recognise if the horse’s behaviour was different to normal?
- Are you registered with an equine veterinary practice?
When the colder months arrive, make sure to provide the horse with:
Appropriate diet
Grass can be sparse in the winter and grazing may not provide enough nutrition for your horse, meaning you may need to give them extra hard feed and forage to maintain their ideal body weight. An equine nutritionist or an equine vet can advise you on this. Always introduce changes gradually, over a couple of weeks, as rapid changes in a horse's diet can make them ill.
Plenty of water
Just like other times of year, horses need plenty of fresh water throughout the winter to stay hydrated. Provide water that’s clean and free from ice. When temperatures are below freezing you’ll need to regularly check water buckets and troughs, and break and remove any ice to ensure your horse can drink freely.
Don't overwork them
When riding in the winter, avoid getting the horse too sweaty as they can easily catch a chill.
Regular visits
Winter means shorter and darker days, so make your first visit to the horse each day as early in the morning as you can. That way, if there's a problem, you can call for assistance in daylight.
Regular checks
If it's wet and muddy, regularly check the horse’s legs for any signs of mud fever (see below). Check their hooves for problems such as abscesses and loose shoes (just as you should at other times of year).
Plan ahead for a situation where an emergency – you’re ill, delayed or cut off by bad weather, for example – could affect your ability to care for your horse. Make arrangements with an experienced person to step in should such a situation arise. Network among local horse owners; you may be able to share horse care with a like-minded friend.
Remember: If you’re out riding on roads, always wear reflective clothing. It can get dark very rapidly in the winter – and even in the short daylight hours visibility can be poor.
How to keep horses comfortable in cold weather
Horses are outdoor creatures; they can tolerate temperatures as low as 5°C before they start to feel the cold. However, prolonged exposure to cold, wet, or windy conditions can cause them discomfort and may impact their health. This is when they need your help to remain comfortable and healthy.
Use a waterproof horse rug (a coat designed for horses) only if necessary
If it’s below 5°C, a rug may be necessary to keep your horse comfortable, especially in wet and windy conditions. Elderly, very young or sick horses may have differing needs that should be taken into account when deciding whether rugging is appropriate for particular weather conditions – ask your vet for advice.
Don’t rug the horse unnecessarily. Over-rugging causes serious welfare issues, including overheating and limiting normal social and self-grooming behaviours, as well as contributing to obesity. Only rug the horse in the appropriate weather conditions.
Remember
Overheating can be a concern. Ensure that the horse’s rug is appropriate for the temperature, and remove it as soon as the weather warms up.
Give them access to shelter
Provide the horse with a field shelter if they don’t have access to effective natural shelter, such as trees and hedges. They must be able to escape the elements and have access to dry standing and lying areas.
Field shelters must be dry, draught-free and large enough for the horse to move around comfortably. If more than one horse is using the shelter, there must be enough room for all to move around freely and safely get away from one another if necessary; this may require more than one entrance to the shelter.
Regularly check the horse for signs of discomfort
Each horse is different, so regularly monitor them for signs the weather may be affecting their well-being.
Unsure if a horse is cold?
If you’re worried a horse may not be warm enough, look for the following signs:
- Lethargy: Is the horse lethargic, seeming more tired or moving around less or more slowly than normal?
- Tucked head: Is the horse’s head lowered, tucked in and away from the wind?
- Cold to the touch: Are the horse’s shoulders, chest and body cold (when under a rug)? Feel right next to the skin.
- Reduced appetite: Is the horse eating less than normal?
- Behaviour change: Does the horse seem unhappy or depressed?
- Shivering: Have you noticed visible shivering?
If you’re worried about a horse's well-being, make sure to contact a vet straight away.
How to keep horses healthy in cold and wet weather
The cold and wet weather can increase the risk of various health issues, from skin conditions to digestion problems. Here are some to look out for, and how to prevent them.
Worming in winter
You should speak with your vet about developing a deworming programme for your horse, based upon regular testing. Dewormers should only be used when testing indicates this is required. Your vet is the best person to advise you about this.
Mud fever
In cold and wet weather a horse’s legs can become damp – if they don’t dry properly, the skin can soften and mud may rub against this softened skin causing damage to the surface, allowing bacteria to enter. This can result in skin conditions like mud fever, which appears as the formation of scabs, areas of broken skin and hair matting and loss on the lower legs and heels. Mud fever can be painful, and the horse may not tolerate the area being touched.
To prevent mud fever:
- Check the horse’s legs daily: Look for scabs, cracked skin, hair loss or swelling around their lower legs, heels and hooves daily, to spot signs of disease or infection early on.
- Brush off dried mud: When bringing the horse in from outside, wait for their muddy legs to dry, then brush off the mud instead of washing it off, so their legs don’t get wet.
- Try to keep the pasture dry: Rotating fields, feeding and watering the horse away from muddy areas, or adding woodchip or field mats to any muddy areas (or fencing them off), can help reduce the risk of mud fever – but this is usually a short term solution.
- Ensure the horse has dry shelter: A place where they can avoid the rain, snow and wind.
It’s important to call your vet as soon as you suspect your horse has mud fever, so they can give an accurate diagnosis and ensure treatment is tailored to your horse’s needs.
Winter colic
In colder winter conditions, certain types of colic (abdominal pain) are more common. Winter often creates changes in your horse’s day-to-day routine, increasing the risk of digestive disturbances that can lead to colic. A decrease in water intake can increase the risk of impaction colic (caused by blockage in the digestive system).
To prevent winter colic:
- Keep the horse hydrated: This helps them digest dry feed better. In winter, frozen water is the main reason horses drink less, so ensure they constantly have access to fresh water. The amount of water required will vary depending on the horse but can range from 20 to 70 litres per day for an average size adult horse (around 10 litres per 100 kg body weight per day). You’ll need to regularly check that water buckets, troughs and automatic drinkers are not frozen, breaking and removing any ice that has formed.
- Make sure the horse has plenty of pasture time: Walking around and continually grazing helps to keep the gut moving.
- Feed them plenty of forage: Winter means limited grass to graze on – provide hay frequently throughout the day.
Colic is an emergency and can be fatal. If you suspect your horse has colic, contact your vet immediately.
Snow balling
Snow can clump and freeze to the bottom of a horse’s hooves forming large frozen balls of ice, particularly if they are shod (has horseshoes on). This can lead to pain and injury, by increasing the chance of slipping and falling, bruising the sensitive sole of the foot, and putting pressure on tendons and ligaments.
To prevent snow balling:
- Apply petroleum jelly or hoof oil to the hoof: A layer of petroleum jelly or hoof oil on the sole of the hooves and inside the horse shoes can prevent snow from balling up, especially during exercise.
- Remove petroleum jelly afterwards: Make sure you remove all the jelly after the weather has warmed up and the snow is gone, as bacteria can grow in it in warmer conditions, leading to infection.
If snow balling is causing problems for you and your horse, you should ask your farrier for advice -- for example, whether you should consider having your horse’s shoes removed if you’re riding less over winter.
Rain scald
Rain scald is caused by the same bacteria as mud fever and affects a horse’s neck, back and hindquarters. It forms as small and painful scabs, which come off with tufts of hair attached, resembling little paint brushes. It can also be brought on by a build up of sweat, common if a horse is over-rugged (see above).
To prevent rain scald:
- Check neck, back and hindquarters daily: Look for ‘paint brush’ scabs or cracked skin.
- Make sure the horse isn’t too sweaty or warm: When the horse is rugged, regularly check that they’re not overheating or sweating.
- Ensure the horse has dry shelter: A place where they can avoid the rain, snow and wind.
- Brush off dried mud: Wait for any muddy patches or clumps of mud on the horse to dry, then brush them off. Avoid overgrooming, as this can damage the natural oil in the hair, which forms a barrier against the rain.
Ask your vet for advice if you think your horse has rain scald. It’s really important to ensure other skin conditions, such as ringworm, a highly contagious fungal infection, are not mis-diagnosed as rain scald. Your vet might take a sample of the scab to confirm diagnosis and establish the best treatment.
Common winter and year-round poisons
A number of common plants and other substances are poisonous to horses and other equines in the winter and year-round. Here are a few to look out for:
Mouldy hay or feed
This is more likely to develop in damp conditions. Regularly inspect stored forage and feed supplies to ensure they are free from mould, dampness or other contamination.
Contaminated forage and feed must not be used. Dispose of it in a manner which prevents horses and other animals accessing it.
Yew tree
This is the UK’s most toxic plant for equines, but it’s easily identifiable by its evergreen foliage and red berries.
Every part of this tree is poisonous, whether dried or fresh, and just a mouthful can cause death within minutes. Symptoms include: trembling, respiratory difficulties and collapse prior to death – there is no cure.
Trees should be removed or securely fenced off with enough perimeter to completely ensure that any leaves or berries dropped can’t be reached by grazing horses.
Sycamore
Sycamore seedlings and the ‘helicopter’ seeds cause fatal poisoning of horses. The trees can easily be recognised by the presence of ‘helicopters’ and their distinct five-pointed leaves. Sycamore poisoning is more common in autumn and in bad weather when more ‘helicopters’ are falling.
The toxin found in the seedlings can cause muscle damage affecting the ability of the horse to stand and breathe normally. Signs include: trembling, lethargy, stiffness, sweating and difficulty breathing, escalating to sudden death.
Areas with sycamore trees should be securely fenced off to prevent access by equines; this area will need to be of considerable size as the seeds and seedlings can spread over 100 metres from the tree.
Important: If you suspect your horse has ingested any poisonous plant or substance, contact your vet for advice immediately.
Rodent poisons
Also known as ‘rodenticides,’ these prevent blood clotting, which can lead to uncontrolled bleeding and death. Ensure horses can’t access rodenticides at any time.
Oak
The leaves of the oak tree are poisonous; however, the acorns produced by the tree are even more poisonous to horses.
Oak trees should be fenced off, especially in autumn, when horses may forage on leaves or fallen acorns, causing them to ingest tannic acid – this can lead to colic, dullness and lack of appetite. Any acorns found on grazing land should be removed.
Ragwort
Ragwort is one of the most common causes of poisoning of horses in the UK, causing liver failure and death. This yellow flowered plant with lobed leaves grows to around 0.75 metres in height and flowers from July to September.
Pull out ragwort plants, including their roots – preferably with a custom-designed fork. As dried ragwort is more palatable to horses and still toxic, remove pulled ragwort from the land, so that horses can’t access it, and burn it. It’s advisable to wear suitable gloves when making direct contact with the plants.
Important: Always check that hay is not contaminated with ragwort. Contaminated hay must not be used and it should be disposed of safely.
